Bonito

We were on the night bus from Iguazu when we were suddenly woken up by huge speed bumps, as we entered into the small town of Bonito at around 7am. Bonito translates to 'beautiful' and it couldn't be a more apt name for this place. We looked out of the window and saw rolling countryside with palm trees and blue skies. We arrived at our Hotel which was equally as pretty, and decided what to do with our day.

Our guide Giulia said that they have baleherneiro near by, which the local people go to on the weekends. It is basically a fresh water river where you can swim and chill for the day. After a long overnight coach journey, this sounded perfect so we headed there.

The place was amazing and the sort of place you picture american kids spending 'Spring Break'. There were zip wires to fly down and launch yourself into the water, and waterfalls to swim under and keep cool. There were large fish in the crystal clear water, and it was just like the tropical oasis we were hoping for. We also strangely found the freshwater quite a nice change after spending 80% of our time in brazil in the sea.

Guilia called us over to say that a man she got chatting to would show us a waterfall round the corner that was off limits. She has a really cheeky face and can be very naughty sometimes, especially as she  was meant to be our guide! In Guilia's trust we skulked round the corner whilst the other life guards wern't looking, and with the help of the man in flippers we ducked and weaved under overhanging branches and battled the current of the small waterfalls in front of us. Again with his help we scrambled along some tree roots and then he showed us how to get underneath a water fall. It was then Guilias told us he wanted us to come because he saw we had an underwater camera and wanted us to get some cool pictures! It also turned out he was an off duty life guard with a bit of a rebellious streak so although we weren't 100% sure at the time, we were in safe hands. It was really good fun, and even more so because we knew no one else was allowed to be there. Unfortunately we lost the pictures so that's a real shame, but after Iguazu it may have looked a little measly!

After a day of soaking in the sun, Zip lining, chasing after fish, playing volleyball, laughing at greedy cappucin monkeys and generally relaxing, we headed back to meet the rest of the group who didn't come, and headed out to dinner. We went to a pizza place called Zappy Zen which was a small family run restaurant that Guilia was trying to help grow so was keen to take us there. They did the most delicious fresh fruit juices, and small crispy pizzas that were perfect for us all to share. To her delight there were an extra two tables present which hadn't been there the last tour she had done a few weeks back so was happy they were doing well. After pizza, we headed to a frozen yogurt place for desert.

The next day, was the day we'd been waiting for and something that Tom had been avidly researching before our trip began. This was snorkelling in the freshwater jungle river of Rio de prata. It is a little gem which for most people has been under the radar for a few years but with increased tourism to the area, local sources of income in decline and greater awareness and education for the native population, the local people realised the importance of this beautiful yet fragile ecosystem. It has now been declared an official eco tourism destination and great care is being taken to preserve the beauty and delicate biological balance which keeps the river of Rio de prata the thriving and jaw dropping natural wonder currently is.  Because of this only a handful of people are allowed to enter the river each day, so we felt really lucky guilia managed to secure us a place despite not being able to get one for herself.

We embarked on about a two hour bus journey from our hotel in bonito (the closest hotel to the site). It took us down a never ending dirt track right into the back of beyond until we finally reached the lodge. 

We were fitted into our wet suits and briefed for the day ahead. As a huge fish lover, and especially fresh water South American fish, Tom was beside himself with excitement. We then took a quick shower in our tightly fitted neoprene and boarded and open top jeep for a tour around the ranch.

 we saw lots of cow boys rounding up horses. It was a beautiful sunny day and looked like a film scene. We stopped on the edge of the forest where we would do a 50 minute walk to get to the river. Our guide who was also called Thomas, showed us all the flora and fauna of the surrounding area explaining the importance of each biological component to sustaining the surrounding ecosystem. We also took the time to take a semi naked picture of us all hugging the oldest (400 year old) tree in the forest. Quite a strange spectacle considering we had all only met a week or so ago.



We finally reached the area where you can practice floating and the rocks are allowed to be stood on. The water was absolutely clear and we waded into the fish infested waters. Our guide thomas showed us how to us our masks and how to float, and we went for a little test around the area. Even in just the test pool, the sights were amazing. Fish bigger than our heads swam by unphased by our presence, and thomas showed us a natural spring that was underwater. From here, we did the real thing and made our way down the river. Floating was actually Very easy in the wet suits and life jackets, and the current of the river was strong enough to move you along so you didn't have to kick and disturb the ecosystem but also slow enough for us to take in the amazing natural phenomenon in front of us.

After floating for about half an hour we got out and walked round to avoid a waterfall, and got back in to a much stronger current after the falls. It was so shallow and rocky that you had to take great care to be a solid plank and just let the river take you. Otherwise you ran the risk of getting bounced off the rocks and debris. It did however slow down again and we were able to peacefully be on our way.

The crystal clear water was packed with life and and everywhere you looked was full of huge schools of fish varying sizes and colours and beautiful aquatic greenery, rocks branches and wood. It really was teaming with life and was such a unique experience we felt lucky to be part of. 

At the end, we floated over another natural spring, and the sand underneath was bubbling away. Here the water was deeper and our instructor said there were good diving opportunities here, so here we divulged in some photos.

At the end of the river, there was an option to get out onto a boat, or to continue in the river. We decided to stay in and enjoy the calm, and we saw some large hummingbirds fly over us. We also saw a family of monkeys jumping over our heads across the river. It made some tense viewing as there were some small under practiced babies going for the leap, so there was lots of screaming and clapping on our part when the whole family made it over.

Our description or photos definitely don't do it justice but we hope it gives an idea of just what a special place this is.

That night we went to zappi zen again as the pizza was so good! Guilia bumped into an old friend who worked for G adventures for 10 years, so he was interesting to talk too! We ate up and headed back to to our hotel to get ready for the next wild life expedition ahead of us the next day: the Pantanal