Bonito

We were on the night bus from Iguazu when we were suddenly woken up by huge speed bumps, as we entered into the small town of Bonito at around 7am. Bonito translates to 'beautiful' and it couldn't be a more apt name for this place. We looked out of the window and saw rolling countryside with palm trees and blue skies. We arrived at our Hotel which was equally as pretty, and decided what to do with our day.

Our guide Giulia said that they have baleherneiro near by, which the local people go to on the weekends. It is basically a fresh water river where you can swim and chill for the day. After a long overnight coach journey, this sounded perfect so we headed there.

The place was amazing and the sort of place you picture american kids spending 'Spring Break'. There were zip wires to fly down and launch yourself into the water, and waterfalls to swim under and keep cool. There were large fish in the crystal clear water, and it was just like the tropical oasis we were hoping for. We also strangely found the freshwater quite a nice change after spending 80% of our time in brazil in the sea.

Guilia called us over to say that a man she got chatting to would show us a waterfall round the corner that was off limits. She has a really cheeky face and can be very naughty sometimes, especially as she  was meant to be our guide! In Guilia's trust we skulked round the corner whilst the other life guards wern't looking, and with the help of the man in flippers we ducked and weaved under overhanging branches and battled the current of the small waterfalls in front of us. Again with his help we scrambled along some tree roots and then he showed us how to get underneath a water fall. It was then Guilias told us he wanted us to come because he saw we had an underwater camera and wanted us to get some cool pictures! It also turned out he was an off duty life guard with a bit of a rebellious streak so although we weren't 100% sure at the time, we were in safe hands. It was really good fun, and even more so because we knew no one else was allowed to be there. Unfortunately we lost the pictures so that's a real shame, but after Iguazu it may have looked a little measly!

After a day of soaking in the sun, Zip lining, chasing after fish, playing volleyball, laughing at greedy cappucin monkeys and generally relaxing, we headed back to meet the rest of the group who didn't come, and headed out to dinner. We went to a pizza place called Zappy Zen which was a small family run restaurant that Guilia was trying to help grow so was keen to take us there. They did the most delicious fresh fruit juices, and small crispy pizzas that were perfect for us all to share. To her delight there were an extra two tables present which hadn't been there the last tour she had done a few weeks back so was happy they were doing well. After pizza, we headed to a frozen yogurt place for desert.

The next day, was the day we'd been waiting for and something that Tom had been avidly researching before our trip began. This was snorkelling in the freshwater jungle river of Rio de prata. It is a little gem which for most people has been under the radar for a few years but with increased tourism to the area, local sources of income in decline and greater awareness and education for the native population, the local people realised the importance of this beautiful yet fragile ecosystem. It has now been declared an official eco tourism destination and great care is being taken to preserve the beauty and delicate biological balance which keeps the river of Rio de prata the thriving and jaw dropping natural wonder currently is.  Because of this only a handful of people are allowed to enter the river each day, so we felt really lucky guilia managed to secure us a place despite not being able to get one for herself.

We embarked on about a two hour bus journey from our hotel in bonito (the closest hotel to the site). It took us down a never ending dirt track right into the back of beyond until we finally reached the lodge. 

We were fitted into our wet suits and briefed for the day ahead. As a huge fish lover, and especially fresh water South American fish, Tom was beside himself with excitement. We then took a quick shower in our tightly fitted neoprene and boarded and open top jeep for a tour around the ranch.

 we saw lots of cow boys rounding up horses. It was a beautiful sunny day and looked like a film scene. We stopped on the edge of the forest where we would do a 50 minute walk to get to the river. Our guide who was also called Thomas, showed us all the flora and fauna of the surrounding area explaining the importance of each biological component to sustaining the surrounding ecosystem. We also took the time to take a semi naked picture of us all hugging the oldest (400 year old) tree in the forest. Quite a strange spectacle considering we had all only met a week or so ago.



We finally reached the area where you can practice floating and the rocks are allowed to be stood on. The water was absolutely clear and we waded into the fish infested waters. Our guide thomas showed us how to us our masks and how to float, and we went for a little test around the area. Even in just the test pool, the sights were amazing. Fish bigger than our heads swam by unphased by our presence, and thomas showed us a natural spring that was underwater. From here, we did the real thing and made our way down the river. Floating was actually Very easy in the wet suits and life jackets, and the current of the river was strong enough to move you along so you didn't have to kick and disturb the ecosystem but also slow enough for us to take in the amazing natural phenomenon in front of us.

After floating for about half an hour we got out and walked round to avoid a waterfall, and got back in to a much stronger current after the falls. It was so shallow and rocky that you had to take great care to be a solid plank and just let the river take you. Otherwise you ran the risk of getting bounced off the rocks and debris. It did however slow down again and we were able to peacefully be on our way.

The crystal clear water was packed with life and and everywhere you looked was full of huge schools of fish varying sizes and colours and beautiful aquatic greenery, rocks branches and wood. It really was teaming with life and was such a unique experience we felt lucky to be part of. 

At the end, we floated over another natural spring, and the sand underneath was bubbling away. Here the water was deeper and our instructor said there were good diving opportunities here, so here we divulged in some photos.

At the end of the river, there was an option to get out onto a boat, or to continue in the river. We decided to stay in and enjoy the calm, and we saw some large hummingbirds fly over us. We also saw a family of monkeys jumping over our heads across the river. It made some tense viewing as there were some small under practiced babies going for the leap, so there was lots of screaming and clapping on our part when the whole family made it over.

Our description or photos definitely don't do it justice but we hope it gives an idea of just what a special place this is.

That night we went to zappi zen again as the pizza was so good! Guilia bumped into an old friend who worked for G adventures for 10 years, so he was interesting to talk too! We ate up and headed back to to our hotel to get ready for the next wild life expedition ahead of us the next day: the Pantanal 

Iguazu Falls

We left Paraty in the early hours of the morning, (with the power cut still cursing us may we add!). We were picked up by a private mini bus to São Paulo at 6am. The drive was around 5-6 hours but the roads before the city were bendy and made everyone feel a bit sick. We had a small stop to gather our stomachs together, and then got onto the main road to São Paulo. The flight to Iguazu  was only 1 hour and the airport on the other side was tiny. Here, we met Lourdes who would be our tour guide and chauffeur for the next couple of days. We stayed at hotel Del Rey which was a bit fancy, and had a rooftop pool and bar. That night we headed to the nearest restaurant on the corner, which was another all you can eat meat buffet.

rooftop pool

The next day, we were all so excited to finally be seeing the falls, a natural phenomenon that had made us lust over South America in the first place. We say we were all excited, but Susan and Melisa managed to sleep in so had 10 minutes to get ready for our 10am lift so needed their breakfast on the go! (The breakfast by the way is one of the best we've had! Crazy amounts of food choices and all really tasty and fresh!)

Today we would be seeing the falls from the Argentinian side, the side with the majority of the falls. The Iguazu  Falls are spread over a 2 mile area, and span over the boarders of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. There are 275 individual falls, and some are over 2642ft in height! They are wider than Victoria falls and higher than Niagra falls! Iguazu translates to "great waters", however the actual spelling and pronunciation changes from person to person! We're still unsure!

The falls were declared as a national heritage site in 1986, so we had pay entrance which was about £40 each. We entered the park and swiftly made our way through a woodland walk to the small railway station. As its a huge tourist attraction, we had to follow a large crowd to get there. Suddenly up ahead there was a massive commotion, and screams and grunts could be heard. We ran ahead to find a large family of Coatis attacking a Chinese tourist who had got out some snacks for her walk. Coatis of all shapes and sizes ran off with all sorts of delights in their mouths, looking smug, naughty and yet still cute all at the same time.

We got to the small railway where we were surrounded by Coatis and then got on a train to take us to the highest point of the falls, The Devils Throat. 

Our guide Giulia

When we got off the train, there were hundreds of butterflies surrounding us everywhere we walked, they must like the moisture in the air from the spray of the falls. We got onto to some walkways that went right over the river, and tried to stop turtles and fish in the water.

A family of turtles sunbathing

 After about 10 minutes of walking on the walk ways, we saw the spray in the air as we got closer to the Devils throat. We got to the triangular platform that gives panoramic views, and we looked over the edge to just see thousands of gallons of water falling. 

There was so much spray you couldn't actually see much, and we got really wet where we were surrounded by water. We stayed there for about an hour taking pictures, and then headed back to the train to go back to the main park. We decided to do the added extra activity of going for a boat ride under the falls, which we would do after lunch. Whilst going to the lunch area, we went on more walk walkways that winded through forests, and gave us views of the other individual waterfalls. It was so beautiful from every angle, so we all took thousands of pictures. 

There were still hundreds of butterflies, and we saw a handful of lizards and more coatis. The walkways spanned round the majority of the falls, apart from the main sheet of water that goes down as one big mass.

At lunch we had some pretty rubbish sandwiches, and watched as a coati stole a whole one of a table and scurried it away, we realised that they are super greedy! We headed up to the meeting point for the boat ride, which included a jeep journey and "Safari tour". The problem with the safari your was that the guide was bellowing into a microphone so any wildlife would have heard us coming a me enough. Sure enough we didn't see any animals! We finally reached the area to aboard the speed boat, and we were all becoming very excitable as well as slightly nervous! With our life jackets on, we made our way up the river that separated Brazil and Argentina.

Brazil on the left, Argentina on the right

The waters got rougher and rougher as we neared the falls, and we blasted up river against Rapids and torrents, until we were eventually face to face with Iguazu itself. We were told to put electronics away and then The countdown began. When we got to "1" we zoomed into the wall of water, and were pelted with water drops. It was more of a sensory journey as you couldn't see anything but white, but you could hear everyone screaming and we all got absolutely soaked with cold water. Tom took a video on his Go Pro camera so hopefully when were home we can watch that back and see a bit more! We went under a couple of times, then headed round another corner to another large waterfall, to do the same again.

Our soggy group

When we got off the ride we dropped past all of the dry people who were queing up to go next. At the bottom of the falls, we had another spectacular view from another perspective, and probably a better one in terms of seeing the falls as a whole. We walked along the base of the rocks and looked up and saw rainbows being made from the sun shining through the spray. 

We had such a great day and couldn't believe the Brazilian side we'd be visiting the following day would be any comparison. 

That night we went out to dinner to a place called Laos to enjoy some sushi and Thai food, again with Giulia's approval. We ordered lots of dishes and really enjoyed our meals then headed back to the hotel where we fell asleep fast. Adrenaline can do that to you! 

The next morning we were slightly skeptical about going back to the falls, as we said, the day before had been so action packed. Lourdes picked us up and explained it would be about an hours trip as there isn't as much to do. We got to the car park and looked over to see the falls, only to fall in love with them all over again. Seeing them from further away gave you a real idea of the sheer size, and it meant you could see all the tiny waterfalls you couldn't see underneath the larger ones.

 It looked like paradise, and like the perfect backdrop for an Avatar movie. Again, we took copious amounts of pictures in hope that just one would do it the justice it needs when seeing it in real life, however we think you need to hear the sheer amount of noise and to see the water moving to get a real sense of its power.

 At the end of the walk, we had an opportunity once again to get a little wet as we stood at a platform that was above and below a large waterfall, as it had two tiers. Here you could look down the natural tunnel the falls created, and see right through to the peaceful river it left at the end. 

There was also a viewing platform that reached to the very top of the falls so you could see the sheer height of the falls.

If you get a chance to go to see Iguazu, then we would HIGHLY recommend going to both sides. It's impossible to get bored of, and we asked Lourdes who sees the falls every single day as her job, if she got bored, and she said that it looks different everyday, whether it's because of water colour of the kind of day it is.

After the falls we headed to a bird park for the afternoon, where we saw all the typical birds that live in the region including flamingos and the ever elusive shy toucan.

 The colours and sounds that came from each bird were dazzling, and at one point we found ourselves in a macaw sanctuary with streaks of red, green and blue flying past us. We think they started to play with us because at the end they were coming so close to our heads that Steph and the girls had to leave because they were a bit scared. At the end we got to have a picture with a parrot.

 We went back to the hotel to pack ready to be picked up for a night bus at 10:30 that evening. We went to the restaurant next door to our hotel, and waited for our bus to Bonito. When on the bus, we all slept quite soundly after the amazing few days we'd had.